Austrian wine? Austrian wine! We frequently hear, “I’ve never had an Austrian wine before,” but they’ve been part of the culture since the Bronze Age. Situated farther north in Europe (approximately level with Burgundy), Austria’s wine regions are suited to lighter, cooler-climate styles of wine. Austria is strong on continuity, as well: the cellars of Schloss Gobelsburg have housed estate-made wines since the twelfth century, making it one of the oldest continuously-producing wineries in the world. But mere age means nothing without dedicated people, and since 1996 the Moosbruggers have taken on the viticulture and winemaking of the castle, introducing modern techniques while fostering traditional, terroir-driven practices. Green-berried and thin-skinned, with high natural acidity that makes for a fresh, easy-drinking wine, Grüner is Austria’s signature white grape. The Gobelsburger Grüner Veltliner comes from the younger vines of some of the top vineyards of the estate, and is a real beauty. One’s first impression is of a light, pretty wine, zippy and fresh, with a lively tongue and brisk way, but it gains depth and seriousness as it fills your mouth. With yellow and green apple fruit, hints of honeysuckle and white roses, the upright minerality of Kamptal soils blended with the subtle texture of lees aging, its complexity comes as a surprise and delight, especially when you consider the price tag.
Pairing: Pair it with light, young cheeses, curried chicken salad, or sea scallops.
VARIETY: GRUNER VELTLINER
REGION: Kamptal, AUSTRIA