It’s educational! And NWM education is never the boring or useless kind, but involves new grape varieties, new areas of production (or, as in this case, new-old), new wines, the opportunity to experience the unique intersection of the right grape and the right place, grown by someone who cares about both. That someone in this case is Petros Karydas, eminently qualified to teach us about Xinomavro, the noble red grape of Greece. Though five thousand miles away, he’s sent along this bottle, his best lecture on the subject. A classicist, he farms a mere six acres of old-vines Xinomavro, concentrating on the sandy clay and limestone soil of his vineyard and the deep, ageworthy wine it makes. His current release, headed for its fourth birthday, shows a full nose of red and black raspberry, pomegranate, and spice, with an underlying tug of earthy smoke. Both delicate and intense on the palate, it shows why this grape is so often compared to Nebbiolo. Full-flavored, with red and black raspberry fruit, cedary earthiness, and a lively acidity, it balances between strength and lift, with red cherries, baking spice, and a hint of pepper on the finish. Elegantly structured, it has the fruit, tannin, and acidity to age gracefully for another seven years or more.
Pairing: A natural for food, have it with wild mushroom risotto with Parmesan flakes, seared marinated tuna steaks, or lamb with oregano and feta.
REGION: Naoussa, Macedonia, GREECE